Ode to San Sebastian

Hola Mi Readers:

Today was a bittersweet day as I sadly wrapped up my time in glorious San Sebastian. As shared yesterday, I was thrilled to have a solid ½+ day of time before my train departed. I went on my final run, winding along the beaches, coast and the river that separates the train station from the main/nice part of town. It was a beautiful morning and a wonderful run. After packing up I secured my luggage at the front desk and fled to the beach for one last hoorah of laying out and reading. The weather was completely on my side, as it was perfectly clear with the sun shining and yet not too warm at all (high 60’s/low 70’s I imagine).

I then hiked back up to my hotel to grab my bags and start on my walk to the train station. Halfway there I stopped for my final meal at a wonderful restaurant right along the beach called La Perla (same one I had the yummy grilled tuna at the other day). I decided to experiment with the menu of the day, and enjoyed an outstanding three-course meal for a pretty reasonable price by San Sebastian prices. First course was a trio of small roasted red peppers filled with mushrooms, herbs and a type of Basque cheese. Second course featured a silky cod dish with a tasty sweet and savory red pepper based sauce. The grand finale was a “chocolate Basque pie” (fancy term for a piece of cocoa dusted flour chocolate cake) with a curry sauce, tiny scoop of sherbet and fresh strawberries. Travelers to San Sebastian should certain add La Perla to their restaurant list!

Following lunch I continued on to the train station, anxious to arrive a full hour early in order to purchase my ticket and grab a glass of wine without the worry of missing my ride. What unfolded was a few minutes of comedic randomness that felt straight out of a sketch, variety show (more Carol Burnett than SNL). I emerged into the train station and was relieved to find myself as the first person in line for the ticket window. When an agent became available I proceeded to the counter and asked for a ticket to Madrid. The agent – oh so nicely – informed me that I needed a numbered ticket in order to take my turn (the kind where you wait for them to call your number). I looked around and noticed about four other people in the entire lobby, not all of whom looked to be waiting for tickets and only two of whom stood behind me. Nevertheless, I like to play by the rules. So – I went to the ticket machine and grabbed ticket “301.” I looked at the windows just as the ticket agent took a woman with ticket “300.” You’ve got to me kidding me! A minute later I was back at the same window and politely asked (again) for a ticket to Madrid. With a ticket in hand I settled into a café for a glass of white wine until my train arrived.

The train ride was quite nice. In fact, I’m growing to be a huge fan of train travel over air travel (mind you I wouldn’t say this in the States where I’m rushing to wherever I need to go). The train ride was smooth, I was able to read, catch up on some e-mail and watch two episodes of 24 … all with the background of gorgeous, lush Spanish countryside passing by. When I arrived in Madrid I proceeded to my hotel where I'm situated until tomorrow morning's flight back to the US.

For more photos from today click here.

Adios,

Zach

Lazy Day in San Sebastian

Hola Readers:

Today was a wonderfully lazy day in San Sebastian. I slept in until the mid-morning, went on my new found run and then went through the drill of AM hygiene rituals. On my way to the beach I stopped to finally sample a freshly bake croissant and glass of fresh orange juice at a local bakery, and then staked out a spot along the beach to take in the sun and read. I broke up the day by wandering through the Old City a bit and grabbing some fresh lubina (sea bass) for lunch. Back at the beach I continued to relax until the late afternoon.

I then hiked back to my hotel to exchange bags (backpack for laptop) and climbed back down to my favorite beach-side bar to work on photos, e-mails and such into the early evening. Back at my hotel I changed into jeans and set out yet again (with backpack this time) for the Old City for dinner. While walking along the coast I stopped every now and then to take in the gorgeous scenery, still amazed that at 8:30pm it is hardly dark ... and that even by 9pm it is still pretty light. Alas, I finally grabbed some promising photos of a San Sebastian sunset. After dinner and yogurt gelato I returned to my hotel to begin packing.

Tomorrow I am thrilled to have a good portion of the day to enjoy in San Sebastian before heading out on the 4:30pm train to Madrid where I'll check into a hotel before my Wednesday AM flight.

To view the bulk of my San Sebastian photos click here and for a small set of Bilbao photos click here.

Buenos noches,

Zach

Diverse Day

Dear Readers:

Another gorgeous day in Basque country!

Today was pretty packed, considering this is my more lazy leg of the journey. I slept in a bit and then reprised my run from yesterday ... actually going a bit further. On my way back along the coast towards my hotel I encountered a packed hoard of people lining the walkway above the beach. There were tons of people, and at first I couldn't understand what was going on. Soon, though, I saw that the walkway was dotted by a fleet of ballerinas who were lining up in preparation to give some sort of recital. It was so bizarre - as the dancers spanned through a number of age brackets and were so plentiful. While I was running they were just lining up, stretching a bit and posing for photographs. After showering and packing my bag for the day I walked back along the coast to find a spot along the beach and the girls were still there so I was able to grab a couple of photos (thank gosh, right?).

I was contemplating whether or not I should attempt to visit the Guggenheim Museum in nearby Bilbao, or just stay in San Sebastian vegging on the beach. When I first set out on my run at around 11am I figured the day was slipping away and I would pass on Bilbao. But, while running and contemplating life, it occurred to me that I'm still thinking like an American whose day winds down at 5pm, and not like a Spaniard whose day winds down at 8pm. Soooo ... I decided to incorporate both plans - beach and museum - into the day. I packed my backpack perfectly - a hotel towel for lounging on the beach, next book from my traveling library for reading, Fodor's guidebook, North Face sweatshirt, camera, iPod, water bottle and snacks. I then set out for the beach where I took in the sun and read my book. Heaven.

After beach time I nestled into a restaurant along the coastline for a delicious lunch, featuring grilled tuna with sweet onions and vegetable confit. The tuna was seared rare and incredibly tasty - one of the best portions I've ever eaten. The setting was also great as the day continued to be clear and beautiful.

Tangent observation...

Wheels are extremely popular in San Sebastian. It's almost like you need to be on a set to be cool (although more people walk than wheel around I suppose). Now, what do I mean when I say "wheels." Well - I've discovered three types that are most popular.

#1: Baby Wheels - The Stroller

There are many kids who are chauffeured around the city by their parents (some seem like they are old enough to walk - but why give up a good thing?).

#2: Adventure Wheels - The Bicycle

Another popular type of wheels is the bicycle, ridden by children and adults. A bike path curves all along the coast line.

#3: Disabled Wheels - The Wheelchair

I am blown away by the number of wheelchair bound elderly people wheeled around the coastline. Not that the number is so high - but every time I go out walking I pass at least four or five. So interesting.

Back to my day ... after lunch I headed for the bus station to catch a ride to Bilbao, one hour somewhat northwest of San Sebastian. This part of my day led me to one of my first travel snafoos of the entire trip. Simply put, I had hoped to catch the 3:30pm bus to Bilbao in order to find my way to the Guggenheim with 2-3 hours to tour before the 8pm closing. Well, I seemed to miss the bus by two minutes ... and had to wait until the 4:30pm departure. So, trying not to sulk (or stress) too much - I simply nestled into a cafe to sip wine and read until my time for departure arrived.

Bilbao was a nice looking city. Upon arrival I headed straight for the museum. I was surprised to learn - while consulting my guide book - that the Guggenheim branch in Bilbao just opened about 13 years ago. It is connected to the other branches (i.e. New York) and houses both permanent and featured exhibits. The exterior of the museum is certainly stunning, designed by North American architect Frank O. Gehry - the same dude who design the Disney Concert Hall in downtown Los Angeles. I was also surprised that the museum is actually not so big. It holds three floors, each with around six galleries - but the galleries are rather small. Some house just four or five pieces of art.

There were two notable exhibits in my opinion. The first was a temporary one featuring artist Indian/British artist Anish Kapoor. His work took up all the galleries on the second floor. He works with all types of media, including wax, and is very contemporary. The second was a diverse collection featuring pieces from some of the most famous artists - Picasso, Marc Chagall, Georges Seurat, Andy Warhol, Van Gough and Henri Rousseau. It was pretty awesome to see works from these masters.

Getting a bit antsy to return to San Sebastian at a decent hour, I left the museum and returned to the bus station just in time to make the 8pm departure. Once back at my home base I grabbed a bite and started on the walk back to my hotel. Now I am sitting at a restaurant/bar next door writing you all.

(more photos to come tomorrow)

Adios,

Zach

Shabbat in San Sebastian

Hola Mi Readers:

While today was not a traditional Shabbat, it was a Shabbat Shalom nonetheless. I slept in unjtil late morning for the first time this vacation, which was wonderful. When I awoke the sky was clear and the sun was shining. To say that it was stunning is to understate!

I had discovered upon my arrival that one of the pastimes that distinguishes San Sebastian is running - who would have thunk? In my hotel lobby was a brochure that listed a few annual races and charted their routes. While my visit did not coincide with a race, I decided to try a version of one of the routes that went all along the coast, passing two connected beaches and winding through the old city and the marina. It was beautiful, and my estimate was that I did just over 11k (approx. 7 miles).

The rest of the day was essentially spent walking around and lying on the beach. No museums. No art. It is occurring to me that this trip is allotting me two vacations in just one trip - so cool. As the day wound down and evening was ushered in I set out to one of the public squares in the Old City to do some reading and wine tasting. I then ventured to a restaurant I found online that had received a Michelin star rating (a prestigious restaurant award). The food was delicious!

San Sebastian certainly comes alive at night. The sun doesn't fully set until after 9pm, and that's when the evening seems to begin here. The streets of the Old City are dotted with tapas bars, and people of all ages and origins (primarily Spanish and French from the sounds of the languages) pack into them and spill out into the streets. It seems to be Spain's version of the French Quarter of New Orleans.

After dinner I walked around a bit and headed to a Gelateria for some yogurt (black cherry and raspberry) gelato. As some of you may know I have a small obsession with Yogurtland and similar establishments back in the States and have been going through a bit of withdrawal. This has proven to be a good substitute while away. I then walked back along the coast to my side of the city and called it a night.

A wonderful and relaxing day to say the least!

Buenos noches and shavuah tov,

Zach

The Eagle Has Landed (in San Sebastian)

Dear Readers:

A quick update ... I've arrived in San Sebastian! My morning was consumed by a 5 1/2 hour train ride from Barcelona to San Sebastian. The ride gave me some time to relax, read my novel, do a bit of work and enjoy some nice country-side scenery.

Upon arrival I decided to walk (with my luggage) from the train station thru town to my hotel in order to get a feel for the city. It was a nice walk, except for the last 5'ish minutes which were pretty up hill. The city looks wonderful - picture'esque as I was lead to believe. When you enter the town you are in an upscale looking area that has a chalet/village feel. You soon emerge to the coast which is situated around a bay/sea area. While it is quite overcast today, I was still struck by the beauty of the time.

My hotel - Hotel Avenida - is nice. It's no 5-star hotel, but more than adequate for my needs. The best part is that my room looks out onto the whole town - so gorgeous. After checking in and unpacking I walked back into town and selected a beach side bar in which to read and enjoy some wine (no, I'm not turning into a lush). It was a very peaceful way to spend the afternoon. Tonight my plan is to grab dinner and do some more reading and walking. Should be nice.

Tomorrow I hope to enjoy the town, and some warmer weather (it's currecntly in the high 50's, but should be in the high 60's tomorrow). Think warm thoughts.

For more photos click here.

Shabbat shalom,

Zach

Reflecting on Barcelona

Hola Readers:

I am now on a train – writing offline - whisking me from Barcelona to San Sebastian. I’m about half way into the 5 ½ hour journey, and have enjoyed the opportunity to relax, read my book, take in the scenery and reflect on my days in Barcelona.

What a city! Having visited many major cities in Europe I can say with some confidence that Barcelona is truly a great blend of so many elements that make a European city intriguing (to me at least) – big, but not too big … deep historical roots, but with many modern elements … walkable … cultural, with great art, architecture, music and food … just great. Two of my former staff members at Ramah have a father who is a university professor/administrator, and who is a bit quirky. He won’t talk or think about experiences as he’s living them, but needs to wait until they have passed to reflect. While the concept of this blog is a clear sign that I don’t fully work in that way, I still thought, that with Barcelona now behind me, I would take a few moments to reflect on the highlights.

Top 10 Observations from Barcelona

1. The city is totally walkable! I am proud to share that during my entire stay I did not take one single taxi or metro ride, and that I did not use the bus either (outside of the tour bus used for the narration and the bus that dropped me off on day #1). It was great to walk – to feel alive and truly get a feel for the city, street names, etc. in a way that only happens on foot.
   
   
2. Travelers going solo, on a budget, or looking for a more authentic experience should certainly give thought to Guest House/B & B accommodations. My stay at Casa de Billy was particularly wonderful. It’s location on a main street, proximity to the train station and attentiveness of Billy and his assistant were much appreciated. While it lacked the full privacy of a hotel room, I was perfectly comfortable sharing a bathroom, enjoyed staying in a real Barcelona apartment and enjoyed the overall extra space (kitchen, dining room, etc.).
   
   
3. Definitely read The Shadow of the Wind while in the city. First off all, it has been a marvelous book so far and I am again thankful to Joel Stern for his recommendation. Second, it is just so cool to read a book that took place in Barcelona during the mid 20^th century with such clear references to streets and neighborhoods. I can really picture the action more accurately.
   
   
4. La Boqueria rocks! I have enjoyed my daily visits, and just can’t overemphasize how fantastic I find the wide selection of freshly squeezed juices … each for about one Euro (about $1.35). The juice is a perfect thirst quencher and a great way to taste local fruits at a wonderful price.
   
   
5. Love the wine and its price. I still can’t get over the fact that a glass of wine costs about the same as a bottle of water in most restaurants that I visited. ..and it’s good too.
   
   
6. The city and her neighborhoods are so diverse. I was awed by how each section of the city has its own distinct personality. The Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) is certainly old and winding with much history, Eixample is a bit more upscale with a couple of streets that are the Park Avenue/Beverly Drive/Champs Elysees of Barcelona, La Rambla/Raval is definitely the happening spot for tourists similar to 3^rd Street in Santa Monica and Ben Yehuda in Jerusalem and when you enter Barceloneta you are immediately transported to a marina/beach environment like Santa Monica, Venice or Yaffo.
   
   
7. The art – both in museums and in architecture – has been wonderful. Granted I’m a particular fan of Dali and Picasso, but I’m more impressed with the overall artistic feel of the city. Due to the architecture art is truly not restricted to a museum. Park Guell is a fantastic case in point, and a great place to walk around and get lost in the world of Gaudi.
   
   
8. The dining has been wonderful, despite my restrictions with kashrut and being a picky eater. Sadly these challenges don’t really allow me to take advantage of the whole “tapas” scene, but I have been quite happy with the range of fish dishes I’ve eaten. I definitely recommend that future travelers stop by Manuela Can in Barceloneta, Café d’Libertat in Barri Gotic & Fonda Gaig in upper Barceloneta.
   
   
9. I am quite impressed with Barcelona’s attention to conservation and the environment. First off, there are public trash cans all over leaving little excuse to throw litter onto the ground. Second, their public recycling system is quite impressive. Most streets have a set of enormous color coded bins on them where people can take their trash and sort according to paper, plastic, food, etc. I understand this system is recent, but that is unimportant at this point. Third, I was pleased to see that several restaurants have bathroom lights that are either controlled by a sensor or are typically off unless in use. Great!
   
   
10. The language issues I anticipated are not panning out, and have been replaced by an odd habit I’ve developed. I was expecting to really struggle to communicate since I don’t speak Spanish (surprising considering my extensive use in these postings). I really haven’t been challenged since typically someone in most restaurants speaks English, and a lot can be communicated through gestures on the streets. I was expecting to bump into some sort of regular stream of Israelis traveling the country and speaking Hebrew, and have been surprised by the rarity of these run-ins and the few times I hear Hebrew used when eavesdropping on conversations. Where are the Israelis (outside of the one who worked at Ramah one summer and the two who sat next to me to Figueres)? At the same time, I’ve developed a habit of allowing Hebrew to fly out of my mouth when I’m trying to communicate with the locals. I guess my brain simply processes that it should not send English out of my mouth, so Hebrew emerges as the next best thing. Seriously – I am more inclined to say “ken” or “lo” than “si” or “no.” Very bizarre.

To sum it up – Barcelona certainly gets two thumbs up. Can’t wait to dive into San Sebastian.

Adios,

Zach

Final Hoorah in Barcelona

Hola l'Kulam (Spanrew for "Hello Everyone):

Today was my last full day in Barcelona and I've used it to tie up loose ends and to revisit my highlights - a nice mix. The day started with a run through the gardens/park and breakfast. I then did a bit of online research into a hotel in Madrid for my last night in Spain before I fly out, which I successfully booked. With my backpack loaded with the essentials (guide book, novel, camera, sweatshirt and iPod) I set out.

My first stop was back to La Boqueria marketplace. Each time I have visited it has been late afternoon, and I understood it was a bit more alive and bustling earlier in the day. With my obsession for marketplaces I felt I needed to see it in the morning. I love marketplaces! I think it is the mix of fresh food, local vendors, community, artistry and old fashioned life. I toured the stalls snapping photos and grabbed a delicious Mango/Papaya juice (yes, I paid for it).

I then followed my instincts and some strategically placed signs towards the Museo Picasso. Along the way I passed by an old Parliament building that had attracted quite a crowd of Spaniards, tourists and policemen. Seemed like something was going on inside. Not wanting to be in the way (and not caring so much), I pressed on until I stumbled into the museum.

Now, growing up my room was plastered with wallpaper imprinted with a child-friendly Picasso pattern and therefore felt I owed it to the man to visit his museum since his art watched over me when I slept. I was not disappointed. Barcelona was Picasso's main home, and the background for his early years of learning. The museum in Barcelona was the first Picasso museum to be established, and the only one to open while he was still alive. The museum was arranged chronologically so that visitors could follow his development and movement through phases. I enjoyed seeing his early work and was struck by his talent and conventionality in his youth. As he grew Picasso certainly established his own style, starting with his Blue Period and into his pioneering work with Cubism. All in all his works were so diverse. Since photography is prohibited in the museum I only walked away with a picture of a few postcards that were the closest thing I could find to my wall paper.

From the Museu Picasso I walked back towards the city center to find the Call (Jewish quarter). Though a bit tucked away, I succeeded and wandered into the synagogue/museum. When I arrived a museum staff member was explaining some facts behind Judaism in Barcelona to a few other visitors. The guide looked familiar, and a bit distracted by my presence. Her accent seemed Spanish, so I didn't make too much of it initially. When she finished her shpiel she looked at my and asked, "Zach?" It suddenly clicked - it was Hila Levi, one of the Israeli shlichim who worked at Ramah in 2005. Such a small world! Hila has been living in Barcelona for the past year where she is taking a couple of classes, doing some distant learning through a unversity program back in Israel and working at this tiny museum. It was really nice to see her - to catch up and visit. Can you believe it??? (does this count as a small miracle?)

After visiting with Hila I walked back down to Barceloneta for lunch at a Fodor's recommended establishment - Puerde Can Manuel. Great, simple food served along the harbor ... featuring Sopa de Rape (a non-shellfish fish soup) and atun a la plancha (grilled tuna steak). Yum. I continued to walk down the beach, a bit more empty than Monday as the day was on the chilly side. I stopped at some benches to read and relax, and then curved back up towards Casa de Billy. Along the way I returned to La Boqueria (shocking) for another crepe and my final fresh juice.

The rest of the day featured some reading, writing (i.e. this blog entry), dinner and a final walk and wine tasting before returning to pack and plan for an early wake up in order to catch my train to SAN SEBASTIAN! Dinner was at yet another Fodor's recommendation - Fonda Gaig. The restaurant has a completely modern design, but features food that clearly his roots in classic Catalonian cuisine. I ordered seasonal vegetables to start followed by a delicious angler fish in a garlic sauce with mushrooms and artichokes.

More more photos from today click here (and thanks to one of my readers who requested that I configure the photo link to open in a new window as opposed to navigating away from this page!).

Adios,

Zach

Northern Catalonia Excursion

Dear Readers:

When we last left off you were in eager anticipation of my big plan for the day. Well, a bit of asking around in Barcelona, consultation of Fodor’s and my own interests led me to … a day excursion to Northern Catalonia and the towns of Figueres and Girona. When I last blogged about routes to take through my Solo Walk in Spain, I contemplated a two to three day trip to the Pyrenees on my way to San Sebastian. As cool as that region seems – rich with natural beauty and hiking – my inquiries led me to realize that this detour was just not practical during this particular trip to Spain since the Pyrenees are a) not so transportation friendly and I would either have to rent a car (cha-ching) or spend too much time traveling by various combos of buses and trains b) a bit on the chilly side this time of year (more ski-friendly than hiking-friendly).

I got an early start on my day with another run through the park (Jardins de Joan Maragall) and then headed to the train station, which was a convenient 10-minute walk from Casa de Billy. I boarded the train and sent off for Figueres, a town just near the border of France and well known for their famous resident, artist Salvador Dali. I opted to lug my laptop with me since I knew I would be facing train rides totaling about four hours, and also wanted my novel, guidebook and snacks. The train ride was fine – I spent a bit of time scenery watching, catching up on work and schmoozing with an older Israeli couple seated next to me. Just over two hours later I arrived in Figueres. I had an image in mind of a pristine little village with rolling hills and a rustic Dali museum. When I emerged from the train station, however, I was met with a neighborhood that looked more like a semi-run down/dirty residential intersection in Israel. A bit disappointed, my inner navigator took over (helped along by a few signs) and I started off towards the Dali Museum. Fortunately, the scenery changed the closer I got to the museum and eventually the town I had in mind started to form. In fact, it was eventually replaced by some very narrow streets lined with shops and cafes that looked more like Rodeo Drive than a quaint Spanish village.

Tangent: My Interest in Dali

As the four of you who actually read this blog likely know, I went to an awesome program at Cleveland High School focused on the humanities. Students in the program follow a core curriculum that teaches about cultures and time periods through a combination of literature, history, sociology, philosophy and … art. On more than one occasion our studies focused on the work of Salvador Dali. While my teacher was a rather peculiar man whose idea of sound pedagogy consisted of daily frontal lectures and slide shows, for some reason the content stuck and my interest in Dali was piqued. He has an uninhibited way of dissecting human beings and objects in a way where I really appreciate his symbolism, but have a hard time looking at the art for an extended period of time. Many of his pieces are ones that I would never want to own and display (which is precisely the reason my Dali collection is non-existent). Those of you familiar with his work may feel similarly (or may leave me hanging). Anyway, given my fondness for his work I was eager for the opportunity to see one of his better collections in the town he often called home.

The museum was outstanding! It is housed in a theater that has been renovated and converted into a museum of multiple levels. I was surprised to discover the broad range of his works. While his focused was certainly on surrealism through painting, he dabbled in other types of art (classic portraits, pop art, etc.) and other mediums (sculpture, metals, costumes, etc.). There were a few pieces that I remembered from my studies, such as the museum’s featured painting Gala the Tiger, inspired by a dream his wife (and frequent subject) once described for him. I was most intrigued by a few particular pieces. First, and as mentioned, Dali loved to incorporate his wife into his work and approached her from so many different angles – literally and figuratively. One specific painting that stands out is called Gala Nude from Behind Looking in an Invisible Mirror. It is so life like, and in many ways not “Dali.” The second was a series of paintings inspired by the stories of Don Quijote the Man of LaMancha. These paintings (more like sketches) merged my love of Dali with my love of theater and the tales of Don Quijote. Once done with the museum I walked around the town a bit more, and eventually found a café at which I could have some wine (two glasses for $4!) and read my novel.

Back on the train I headed south (towards Barcelona) to the town of Girona, home to Jewish people during the 13^th/14^th century. This town was adorable. The “Old City” is separated from the new one by rivers that are crossed by any one of a number of bridges. I spent time walking the streets – up, down, curving – until I found my way to Call Jueu (Jewish area). The only remnant of Jewish life is a decent, small museum providing an overview for the history of Jews in Girona and also other places around Spain. I then wandered a bit, stopping for some berry frozen yogurt, gelato style. Eventually I sat down at a café in Placa de la Independencia, drank tea did a bit of work. So nice! My intention was to stay for dinner, but many places close after lunch and do not re-open until 8pm, cutting it too close to my comfort if I wanted to make the last train back to Barcelona at 9:15pm. So, my day ended with wandering to the Raval to find dinner, reading and writing back in Barcelona.

Tomorrow is my last day in Barcelona, and I’m excited to see the last couple of sites that sound interesting to me and re-visit a few of my highlights thus far.

For more photos from today – click here (Figureres) and here (Girona)!

Adios,

Zach

Yom Gaudi (or, Dia Gaudi)

Hola Mi Readers (note the expansion in my Spanish vocabulary):

I overslept! I was supposed to wake up at around 7am to get a jump start on my day, but didn't actually get up until closer to 9:30am. Guess my body needed sleep. Not to worry - I simply relaxed the pace of my day by simply driving by one of the sites I wanted to stop and see on the double decker bus instead of actually touring it (same thing, right?).

To start my morning I took a mile walk to one of the bus stops for the tour company I started out on yesterday. We drove by Plaza de Catalunya in the center of town and up into the Eixample, where I had visited the cluster of famous homes the day before. It was actually nice to drive by them again, this time from the view point of the second level of the double decker bus. I was struck more today than yesterday by the intricacies of Gaudi's exterior work on Casa Batllo, such as the balconies shaped like animal heads. We then drove by Temple Expiatori del Sagrada Familia (aka La Sagrada Familia), a massive (understatement) church that Gaudi spent years on but did not finish before his untimely death. While I felt a pang of guilt for cutting it out of my plans for the day, I figured a) I could sneak back at the end of the day if I really wanted to b) I still was a bit churched out from my last visit to Europe (albeit 12 years ago).

I got off the bus at Park Guell, an outdoor haven which Gaudi was
commissioned to build by his main patron, Count Eusebio Guell. The park is breathtaking - a mix of winding dirt snake paths, flora/fauna, Gothic-like bridges and caves and the well known bright Gaudi sculptures. I spent about two hours in the park, primarily hiking up the paths and taking it in. I was much impressed by the sculptures (but thought I'd find more...) and these insane bridges. I also noticed, and found touching, one bridge/cave that was built around a carob tree, which Gaudi went out of his way to preserve. (note: get ready for a sappy reflection). It reminded me of the Talmudic story about and an old man named Choni who is in the middle of planting a carob tree when a stranger accuses him of wasting his time since he won't be alive when the carob tree gives off food. Choni agrees, but explains his interest in caring for future generations. It looks like Gaudi shared some fine characteristics with characters from the Talmud! Towards the end of the my visit I plopped down on a warm patch of grass, sprawled out and read my novel. Heaven.

I then set out on foot from the park back towards the Eixample where I had a coffee date with Ms. Talia Leibovic, one of my counselors (and former campers!) from Ramah. Talia is a junior at the University of Maryland and is spending a semester abroad in Barcelona. It was great to meet up with her - hear how she's doing, of her travels in and around Spain and her future aspirations. In discussing my new found love - La Boqueria marketplace - Talia also gave me a promising tip for a crepe stand. So ... we said our goodbyes and I returned to La Boqueria to test out Talia's recommendation. After all, if she was mistaken I would have felt horrible for misleading my many readers. While at the marketplace I picked up a bit more produce, and then settled in to scout out the crepe stand. Many of the stands were closing, but fortunately I found the crepe dude after a bit of hunting. I studied the menu (and his rather artistic display of samples) and settled on a brie, raspberry and toasted almond crepe. Scrumptious, especially when chased down with a cup of fresh blueberry coconut juice. I then dashed into a restaurant for an emergency tinkle break (well, I dashed into the second of two restaurants I tried since a rather large waiter made it clear that I was not welcome to use the bathroom in the first restaurant) and walked back to Casa de Billy.

Back at the casa I enjoyed some much needed down time (guilty - this is code for "I did some work"). I also did a bit of research as to my next steps for this trip, and think I have a great plan in mind. I think I'll ... as if I'll give it away now! Then, dear reader, you'll have no reason to tune in tomorrow. Rather, I'll jump ahead to my evening walk at around 9pm to the Barri Gotic (Gothic District) where I had dinner at an awesome Mediterranean/Catalan restaurant called Cafe de L'Academia, recommended by Bily (of Casa de Billy Cross). It was a wonderfully elegant, hole-in-the-wall restaurant with a nice atmosphere, simple, yet intriguing, menu and reasonable prices. I settled for Cod Fish with Chickpeas and Red Pepper Vinaigrette and a glass of the house red wine. It was delicious - a nice mix of moist fish in a sweet and savory broth dotted with tasty chickpeas. ...and did I mention that a glass of wine in this country is anywhere from about $1.75 - $4.50? Amazing, no?

Okay, I'm off to bed at a semi-decent time in order to be ready for tomorrow's adventure.

To view more photos from today click here.

Buenos noches,

Zach

Diving into Barcelona

Buenos Noches Readers:

Wow - what a city! So many highlights today and I will try my best to capture them succinctly.

My morning started with a run through and around the Jardins de Joan Maragall (a park) in Montjuic. More a series of sculpture gardens, the park had me twisting and turning up a steep hill. The sites were cool, but not so ideal for a focused run due to the number of dead ends. Fortunately the run down hill was more familiar and even. Over breakfast back at Casa de Billy I shmoozed with a couple other guests while also mapping out my day. Right before I departed I thought to take a couple of photos of the guest house - good thing since I discovered the my camera's memory card was "write-protected." Having no idea what this meant I spent the next 20 minutes battling with my camera and memory card. I finally relented, asking the guest house proprietor for a referral to a photo shop. One block away and three minutes later the problem was solved (raise your hand if you felt like a goofball!).

To start the day I purchased a two-day pass on a double decker tourist bus ... the kind that goes all throughout the city with some amount of narration (choose your language and snap on headphones), allowing you to get on and off at your own pace. We started in Montjuic ("Hill of the Jews") and passed by the Fundacio Miro (a gift from artist Joan Miro), a few museums, the park mentioned above and one of the sport stadiums built for the Olympic Games in 1996. We then wrapped around towards the port, where cruise ships lined the marina and a small handful of interesting sculptures and buildings were located. I hopped off the bus in Port Olimpic, and walked over to the wonderful section of Barcelona known as Barceloneta, home to a beautiful beach, peer, marina and twisting cobblestone mini-town. By this point the weather shifted to a warm low 70's and, while the morning was rushed, I finally begane to feel like I was on vacation. I decided to try one of the seafood restaurants recommended in my guidebook - La Mar Salada - and was not disappointed. When I arrived, a couple of the staff were in the middle of a photo shoot featuring their food, which was interesting to observe. Over a delicious sole and glass of white wine I relaxed and began to read The Shadow of the Wind, set in 1940's Barcelona. Life was great.

I took a long walk along the beach back to the bus stop, and boarded the tour bus out of Port Olimpic and into Ciutat Vella (old city) and El Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter). I hopped off near the Palau de la Musica Catalana, Barcelona's fascinating Music Palace. The building stands out in this older district with its Moderniste architecture. It is a looming building with bright colors, great stained glass and elegance. I then walked further up into Eixample, marked by many architectural landmarks from Gaudi and others. As I walked up the Passeig de Gracia I passed the row of Casa Lleo Morera by Domenech i Montaner, Casa Amatller by Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Casa Batlio by Gaudi. I then walked a few more blocks to Casa Mila, a mansion also know as La Padrera by Gaudi. Here I purchased a ticket, signed up for an abbreviated audio tour and entered the mans. It was awesome - done in such an open, creative style. That Gaudi was really onto something. The highlight of La Pedrera is the rooftop, styled in a wavy manner.

To end the afternoon I walked back down the to pedestrian-type mall of La Rambla. This street is to Barcelona as 3rd Street is to Santa Monica and Ben Yehuda is to Jerusalem (or, better yet, as Rothschild is to Tel Aviv). Bustling with walkers, street performers and kiosks of pet birds for sale (yes, you read that right!), La Rambla is a happening place. If you head towards the bottom you can veer off into La Boqueria, a beautiful food market featuring stands with fresh produce, fish, meats, eggs, and ... juice! Yes, La Boqueria is probably one of the world's best juice bar markets featuring many combos in perfectly sized cups for about 1 Euro each (approximately $1.35). I feasted on a goblet of Blackberry-Banana juice that definitely hit the spot, purchased some produce and snapped many pictures. By this point in the afternoon I needed a bit of downtime, and walked back to Casa de Billy to catch up on e-mail and writing over some tea and fruit.

During the evening I met up with my new friend Natanya, with whom I connected thanks to Ramah-friend Jeff Zack. Natanya and Jeff met when they were on Nativ in the mid 90's, and Natanya recently moved to Barcelona from Northern California, and is teaching English, traveling and (re-)exploring her acting roots. With an insider in the lead, Natanya and I took a walk and settled into an outside table at a plaza resteraunt to drink wine, people watch and get to know each other. She was great - interesting and full of good tips. A couple hours later we resumed our walk, stopped in at a "speak-easy" type of private club and went our separate ways. Thank you Jeff!

Okay, time to crash!

For more photos click here.

Adios,

Zach

Mi Casa en Barcelona

Hola Readers:

Upon the suggestion of good friends and seasoned travelers Betsy Uhrman & Joel Snyder and Izzy Gordan & Abby Uhrman I scoped out digs in Barcelona using TripAdvisor.com. Jackpot! Through this site I was able to search the city by setting parameters for price, neighborhood, type (hotel, B & B, etc.) and quality of previous reviews.

After some search the grand winner was a B & B type of guesthouse called Casa de Billy. I was a bit nervous, but it matched all my criteria and so I booked three nights about 10 days before departure. I am relieved to share that it is wonderful. Located on one of the main boulevards, Gran Via de los Corts Catalanes, the location is convenient and has the warmth of a private home. When I arrived to the building I immediately knew I had made a good choice, and my family will appreciate this, as the elevator was pretty cool in an antique sort of way. It is a little glass box with manual doors, and housed in a cage-like shoot.

The proprietor and his assistant greeted me and and after a short tour immediately offered me tea, coffee, water and fresh tangerines (another good sign). Casa de Billy is actual two separate apartments in the same building, and I was housed in the main one on the fourth floor. My room has a double bed with very comfy bedding, and while not large, is certainly not as tiny as I feared. There are two bathrooms for those of us that share, and a kitchen stocked with some basic ingredients and cooking utensils. Later that night I dropped by a market to pick up some breakfast items - so convenient. In the morning they serve a continental breakfast of croissants, coffee, tea, juice and tangerines at a table nicely set. Guests come and go at their own pace, and everyone is given a set of keys to the building, apartment and their bedroom. To top it all off, wi-fi is complimentary.

Billy and his assistant are gracious hosts. They have been more than willing to give me advice on touring Barcelona and traveling to other cities around Spain. So far the other people I've met seem nice too - two young women "on holiday" from London, a British gentleman who teaches education in NY and a Turkish guy (don't know anything about him due to a language barrier.

Want to see more photos? Click here.

Adios,

Zach

Travel Wrinkle Conquered & Itinerary Develops

Shalom:

What a day (and if by “day” I mean closer to 40 hours)! This entry starts with some travel challenges, fortunately all ironed out now. More exciting is the way in which my itinerary is likely to evolve based on my Fodor’s reading.

The Wrinkle*
*Note: Feel free to read, skim or skip this section. It’s only somewhat interested if you enjoy travel annoyances or if you’re my dad and enjoy when your son encounters travel annoyances.

As anyone following the news knows there was some sort of icecube that exploded (or was it a volcano in Iceland?) a few days creating significant travel delays. Prior to my departure Jill (or “mom” as she is affectionately known to me) suggested that I scope out whether any flying lava was going to get in the way of my plane rides. I immediately consulted the internet and was relieved to find out that all flights were on schedule.

My itinerary was supposed to flow as follows:

1. LAX to Chicago O’Hare (American Airlines)
2. Chicago O’Hare to Madrid (Iberia – sounds like a camel carrier to me)
3. Madrid to Barcelona (Iberia)
   

Flights #1 and 2 were according to plan and the time passed relatively quickly. On my first flight I was able to make significant progress in wrapping up many loose ends from the previous week of work. By the time I boarded the plane to Madrid my mind was much less cluttered and more focused on vacation. Flight #2 yielded plenty of time to make much progress on my book The English Assasin by Daniel Silva, which I highly recommend, and to catch the first hour of Avatar before dozing off for just a bit and subsequently loosing interest.

When I landed in Madrid after an 8-hour flight the games began. I disembarked the plane and walked a long way to what will henceforth be known as …

• Line #1. “What is Line #1?” you ask. Customs/Passport Control, of course. I stood in Line #1 for about 10 minutes, passed through and noted from the departure boards that my next flight was in a different terminal, but the gate was not yet assigned (notice the subtle foreshadowing). I then stood in…
  
  
• Line #2 waiting for the airport tram to whisk me off to my next terminal. When I arrived I stood in…
  
  
• Line #3 to ask someone at the information desk which gate matched my flight and she explained that it would be posted about 30 minutes before my flight was slated to take off. “But senora, that makes no sense. Shouldn’t we be boarding 30 minutes before departure, not discovering the gate number?” … should have been my response. Instead I thanked her and retreated to a café where I could plug in my laptop to recharge and send off some e-mails I had composed. Thirty minutes before my fight there was no gate posted on the departure board, and I was directed to an Iberia desk to wait in the very long…
  
  
• Line #4. After standing in Line #4 for about five minutes word started circulating that all flights to Barcelona were cancelled and that we should go claim our luggage and get a bus provided by the airline to Barcelona. When I arrived at baggage claim there was no belt designated for my flight (and many other Iberia flights) and I was told to wait in …
  
  
• Line #5. This line was one where you found out the belt number for your luggage and supposedly got a voucher for the bus ride (which I soon learned was a fancy way to reference the fact that the airline agent wrote “BUS” on my luggage claim ticket. So, off I went to…
  
  
• Line #6 (also known as the baggage claim belt, interestingly, numbered “6”). Ten minutes later I had my bag in hand and was instructed to take it from the ground level area to the 2nd level where “Desk 970” was located and where I could confirm my bus plans. Didn’t I already do that? Determined to be a go with the flow trooper I set off for …
  
  
• Line #7. Another 10’ish minutes and I grabbed one of the last seats on a bus that was supposed to be departing in a few minutes. Apparently this is Spain talk for “Hang around in the terminal for 15 minutes and then an agent will walk everyone to the bus to wait in...
  
  
• Line #8. Okay, to be fair, it took me only a minute to get on the bus since I was standing in the front. BUT, once the bus filled I was getting ready to exhale the stress and settle in for a nice scenic ride to Barcelona when … nothing. We just sat there waiting. And waiting. …until one by one passengers started getting off to use the bathroom, smoke a cigarette, etc. OY! This procedure, or lack thereof, is exactly what I work hard to avoid in my work. Any camp director knows that you get passengers on the bus in an orderly manner and then depart ASAP. The moment you start letting people off … forget about it. (Not to say my camp’s procedures are perfect, and this experience has certainly heightened my sensitivity to parent and camper anxiety when we do keep kids waiting on the bus). After 30 minutes of waiting patiently I finally stepped off the bus to politely inquire about the delay (of course, those that know me can imagine that my use of the word “polite” here is likely an overstatement). I was told we were waiting for some food and water to arrive, and when it did I watched for 30 seconds as one agent climbed on board and put a box of food cartons at the front of the bus and started distributing two at a time. Enough! I went to the front of the bus and grabbed an entire box of food cartons and crate of water and went to the back of the bus and asked everyone to grab one of either item they wanted. Feeling slightly guilty that I overstepped my bounds, I was reassured by a small round of applause from the back of the bus a sheepish “gracias senor” from the agent.
  

I’m writing this update on the bus (to be posted when I arrive) and so far the ride has been lovely. Fortunately the journey will end on a nice note, as the bus will drop us off pretty close to my “casa” instead of further away at the airport.

Updated Itinerary

During my flight to Madrid I took time to read up on Barcelona and the surrounding regions of Spain. Wow – I am growing more and more excited for this trip. Barcelona seems awesome, and the mix of art museums, marketplaces, seaside villages/beaches, Gaudi architecture and Jewish sites seems quite promising. My original thought was to spend three nights in the city (giving about three full days), and I saw how I could easily stretch to four if I wanted.

As I started to read about areas between Barcelona and San Sebastian, my second intended destination, I was immediately drawn to a region smack known as the Pyrenees. Known for incredible hiking, my Fodor’s book proceeded to to describe the lush trails, sweeping canyons (one park was equated to the Gran d Canyon, which I’ve never visited), rushing waterfalls … all of the elements speak to my love of the outdoors. It seems awesome.

So, my latest plan is to budget my time as follows (give or take a day)

• Three days in Barcelona focusing on walking tours, architecture, one or two museums, the marketplace, a seaside villages/beach and possibly the Jewish quarter.
  
  
• Two or three days in the Pyrenees exploring one or two of the national parks
  
  
• Three or four days in San Sebastian with an excursion to Bilbao to see the famous Guggenheim museum
  

This should also leave time for travel between cities and my final bus ride to Madrid to catch my plane back (hopefully NOT a reunion for my new friends Lines #1 thru 8).

Adios,

Zach

The Journey Begins

Greetings Loyal Readers:

The adventure is about to begin. After an intense week of work - with typical and atypical highs and lows - I am almost packed and ready to go.

• Clothing has been laundered and folded (with some assistance from Grammy)
• Trail mix has been - well - mixed and dried fruit bagged
• Books purchased and stored in my luggage, including a Spain guide book, J Kellerman novel, Silva novel and The Shadow of Wind which takes place in Barcelona
• Two seasons of 24 selected (typically this series petrifies me ... so why not watch it on my solo walk in Spain? hmmm....)
• Shoes narrowed down to two pairs
• ...and more

Readers - this is my first time traveling with only two things planned out - 1) roundtrip plane tickets booked 2) a reservation made for my first three nights in Barcelona at Casa de Billy. No train tickets, no additional lodging reservations, no list of sites to see, no pre-purchased museum passes ... I'm a new man.

My father figure has graciously agreed to take me to the airport. My flight is early in the morning (LAX to Chicago to Madrid to Barcelona - don't be too jealous), so I guess that will be about it for now.

Adios,

Zach