Why Spain?

Dear Readers:

Upon hearing the ground breaking news that I'm actually taking vacation time, most inquiring minds want to know, "Why Spain???"

Tangential story ...

I had never been particularly drawn to Spanish anything - language, culture, food, etc. In high school I received credit for Hebrew Language through my studies (slash, battles with Israeli teachers) at LA Hebrew High. Despite the fact that I received high school credit for Hebrew language from LA Hebrew High, I opted to take two years of Spanish in high school. Two years with Senora Orez* – no textbooks, no real pedagogy, hundreds of hard-to-read copied worksheets – left me to confidently proclaim: “Zulema Pestana tienes pomelo en la cabeza!” (translated as, “Senorita Blum has a grapefruit on her head” if I still have it right, which is questionable). It was depressing.

Later on during my junior year abroad in Israel I trekked through Europe for 28 days with three friends and Madrid was our first stop. I thought the city was spectacular, and when we moved on to Seville I felt like I had stumbled into a cultural hot spot. However, as we travelled from city to city across Europe I soon realized that Madrid is similar to most other big European cities and not so distinctly unique. Our tight itinerary demanded that we exit Europe from Greece and did not allow us time to dip down to Barcelona – a city many claimed to be unique with its Gaudi architecture and more distinct Spanish flavor. I left Europe with a small desire to return to Spain and see Barcelona for myself.

Cut to Fall 2009. I was on one of the many, many plane rides I would take this year in order to recruit campers, hire staff and attend conferences as part of my work with Camp Ramah in California when I was flipping through the American Ways magazine and found an intriguing center spread on Basque country (the northeast part of Spain and southwest part of France). It seemed awesome! The photos captured vibrant marketplaces, peaceful looking sea villages, winding cobblestone roads and other great landscapes. I was sold … and declared (to myself of course since I don’t speak to strangers on airplanes)( that I must visit.

Now, I’ve made these declarations in the past … and yet nine times out of ten my faithful travel partner and loving sister Jodi and I seem to always find ourselves on the beach in Mexico, Hawaii or the Caribbean. Don’t get me wrong – I’m not complaining about beach time. But, it had been about four years since I really “saw the world” when Jodi and I journeyed to Costa Rica and I felt the time had finally come to get my butt in gear. After doing a bit of research, I narrowed down my potential destinations to Argentina and Spain … and a combination of weather, good mileage tickets and my desire to see sites but also relax in the middle of a quiet foreign, cultural destination led me to finalize a plan to head to Spain where I would take in the sites in Barcelona and unwind in at a more leisurely pace in San Sebastian.

Stay tuned to see if I chose wisely.

-Zach

*Real names have been changed ... can't have lashon ha'rah on this blog!

Ode to San Sebastian

Hola Mi Readers:

Today was a bittersweet day as I sadly wrapped up my time in glorious San Sebastian. As shared yesterday, I was thrilled to have a solid ½+ day of time before my train departed. I went on my final run, winding along the beaches, coast and the river that separates the train station from the main/nice part of town. It was a beautiful morning and a wonderful run. After packing up I secured my luggage at the front desk and fled to the beach for one last hoorah of laying out and reading. The weather was completely on my side, as it was perfectly clear with the sun shining and yet not too warm at all (high 60’s/low 70’s I imagine).

I then hiked back up to my hotel to grab my bags and start on my walk to the train station. Halfway there I stopped for my final meal at a wonderful restaurant right along the beach called La Perla (same one I had the yummy grilled tuna at the other day). I decided to experiment with the menu of the day, and enjoyed an outstanding three-course meal for a pretty reasonable price by San Sebastian prices. First course was a trio of small roasted red peppers filled with mushrooms, herbs and a type of Basque cheese. Second course featured a silky cod dish with a tasty sweet and savory red pepper based sauce. The grand finale was a “chocolate Basque pie” (fancy term for a piece of cocoa dusted flour chocolate cake) with a curry sauce, tiny scoop of sherbet and fresh strawberries. Travelers to San Sebastian should certain add La Perla to their restaurant list!

Following lunch I continued on to the train station, anxious to arrive a full hour early in order to purchase my ticket and grab a glass of wine without the worry of missing my ride. What unfolded was a few minutes of comedic randomness that felt straight out of a sketch, variety show (more Carol Burnett than SNL). I emerged into the train station and was relieved to find myself as the first person in line for the ticket window. When an agent became available I proceeded to the counter and asked for a ticket to Madrid. The agent – oh so nicely – informed me that I needed a numbered ticket in order to take my turn (the kind where you wait for them to call your number). I looked around and noticed about four other people in the entire lobby, not all of whom looked to be waiting for tickets and only two of whom stood behind me. Nevertheless, I like to play by the rules. So – I went to the ticket machine and grabbed ticket “301.” I looked at the windows just as the ticket agent took a woman with ticket “300.” You’ve got to me kidding me! A minute later I was back at the same window and politely asked (again) for a ticket to Madrid. With a ticket in hand I settled into a café for a glass of white wine until my train arrived.

The train ride was quite nice. In fact, I’m growing to be a huge fan of train travel over air travel (mind you I wouldn’t say this in the States where I’m rushing to wherever I need to go). The train ride was smooth, I was able to read, catch up on some e-mail and watch two episodes of 24 … all with the background of gorgeous, lush Spanish countryside passing by. When I arrived in Madrid I proceeded to my hotel where I'm situated until tomorrow morning's flight back to the US.

For more photos from today click here.

Adios,

Zach

Lazy Day in San Sebastian

Hola Readers:

Today was a wonderfully lazy day in San Sebastian. I slept in until the mid-morning, went on my new found run and then went through the drill of AM hygiene rituals. On my way to the beach I stopped to finally sample a freshly bake croissant and glass of fresh orange juice at a local bakery, and then staked out a spot along the beach to take in the sun and read. I broke up the day by wandering through the Old City a bit and grabbing some fresh lubina (sea bass) for lunch. Back at the beach I continued to relax until the late afternoon.

I then hiked back to my hotel to exchange bags (backpack for laptop) and climbed back down to my favorite beach-side bar to work on photos, e-mails and such into the early evening. Back at my hotel I changed into jeans and set out yet again (with backpack this time) for the Old City for dinner. While walking along the coast I stopped every now and then to take in the gorgeous scenery, still amazed that at 8:30pm it is hardly dark ... and that even by 9pm it is still pretty light. Alas, I finally grabbed some promising photos of a San Sebastian sunset. After dinner and yogurt gelato I returned to my hotel to begin packing.

Tomorrow I am thrilled to have a good portion of the day to enjoy in San Sebastian before heading out on the 4:30pm train to Madrid where I'll check into a hotel before my Wednesday AM flight.

To view the bulk of my San Sebastian photos click here and for a small set of Bilbao photos click here.

Buenos noches,

Zach

Diverse Day

Dear Readers:

Another gorgeous day in Basque country!

Today was pretty packed, considering this is my more lazy leg of the journey. I slept in a bit and then reprised my run from yesterday ... actually going a bit further. On my way back along the coast towards my hotel I encountered a packed hoard of people lining the walkway above the beach. There were tons of people, and at first I couldn't understand what was going on. Soon, though, I saw that the walkway was dotted by a fleet of ballerinas who were lining up in preparation to give some sort of recital. It was so bizarre - as the dancers spanned through a number of age brackets and were so plentiful. While I was running they were just lining up, stretching a bit and posing for photographs. After showering and packing my bag for the day I walked back along the coast to find a spot along the beach and the girls were still there so I was able to grab a couple of photos (thank gosh, right?).

I was contemplating whether or not I should attempt to visit the Guggenheim Museum in nearby Bilbao, or just stay in San Sebastian vegging on the beach. When I first set out on my run at around 11am I figured the day was slipping away and I would pass on Bilbao. But, while running and contemplating life, it occurred to me that I'm still thinking like an American whose day winds down at 5pm, and not like a Spaniard whose day winds down at 8pm. Soooo ... I decided to incorporate both plans - beach and museum - into the day. I packed my backpack perfectly - a hotel towel for lounging on the beach, next book from my traveling library for reading, Fodor's guidebook, North Face sweatshirt, camera, iPod, water bottle and snacks. I then set out for the beach where I took in the sun and read my book. Heaven.

After beach time I nestled into a restaurant along the coastline for a delicious lunch, featuring grilled tuna with sweet onions and vegetable confit. The tuna was seared rare and incredibly tasty - one of the best portions I've ever eaten. The setting was also great as the day continued to be clear and beautiful.

Tangent observation...

Wheels are extremely popular in San Sebastian. It's almost like you need to be on a set to be cool (although more people walk than wheel around I suppose). Now, what do I mean when I say "wheels." Well - I've discovered three types that are most popular.

#1: Baby Wheels - The Stroller

There are many kids who are chauffeured around the city by their parents (some seem like they are old enough to walk - but why give up a good thing?).

#2: Adventure Wheels - The Bicycle

Another popular type of wheels is the bicycle, ridden by children and adults. A bike path curves all along the coast line.

#3: Disabled Wheels - The Wheelchair

I am blown away by the number of wheelchair bound elderly people wheeled around the coastline. Not that the number is so high - but every time I go out walking I pass at least four or five. So interesting.

Back to my day ... after lunch I headed for the bus station to catch a ride to Bilbao, one hour somewhat northwest of San Sebastian. This part of my day led me to one of my first travel snafoos of the entire trip. Simply put, I had hoped to catch the 3:30pm bus to Bilbao in order to find my way to the Guggenheim with 2-3 hours to tour before the 8pm closing. Well, I seemed to miss the bus by two minutes ... and had to wait until the 4:30pm departure. So, trying not to sulk (or stress) too much - I simply nestled into a cafe to sip wine and read until my time for departure arrived.

Bilbao was a nice looking city. Upon arrival I headed straight for the museum. I was surprised to learn - while consulting my guide book - that the Guggenheim branch in Bilbao just opened about 13 years ago. It is connected to the other branches (i.e. New York) and houses both permanent and featured exhibits. The exterior of the museum is certainly stunning, designed by North American architect Frank O. Gehry - the same dude who design the Disney Concert Hall in downtown Los Angeles. I was also surprised that the museum is actually not so big. It holds three floors, each with around six galleries - but the galleries are rather small. Some house just four or five pieces of art.

There were two notable exhibits in my opinion. The first was a temporary one featuring artist Indian/British artist Anish Kapoor. His work took up all the galleries on the second floor. He works with all types of media, including wax, and is very contemporary. The second was a diverse collection featuring pieces from some of the most famous artists - Picasso, Marc Chagall, Georges Seurat, Andy Warhol, Van Gough and Henri Rousseau. It was pretty awesome to see works from these masters.

Getting a bit antsy to return to San Sebastian at a decent hour, I left the museum and returned to the bus station just in time to make the 8pm departure. Once back at my home base I grabbed a bite and started on the walk back to my hotel. Now I am sitting at a restaurant/bar next door writing you all.

(more photos to come tomorrow)

Adios,

Zach

Shabbat in San Sebastian

Hola Mi Readers:

While today was not a traditional Shabbat, it was a Shabbat Shalom nonetheless. I slept in unjtil late morning for the first time this vacation, which was wonderful. When I awoke the sky was clear and the sun was shining. To say that it was stunning is to understate!

I had discovered upon my arrival that one of the pastimes that distinguishes San Sebastian is running - who would have thunk? In my hotel lobby was a brochure that listed a few annual races and charted their routes. While my visit did not coincide with a race, I decided to try a version of one of the routes that went all along the coast, passing two connected beaches and winding through the old city and the marina. It was beautiful, and my estimate was that I did just over 11k (approx. 7 miles).

The rest of the day was essentially spent walking around and lying on the beach. No museums. No art. It is occurring to me that this trip is allotting me two vacations in just one trip - so cool. As the day wound down and evening was ushered in I set out to one of the public squares in the Old City to do some reading and wine tasting. I then ventured to a restaurant I found online that had received a Michelin star rating (a prestigious restaurant award). The food was delicious!

San Sebastian certainly comes alive at night. The sun doesn't fully set until after 9pm, and that's when the evening seems to begin here. The streets of the Old City are dotted with tapas bars, and people of all ages and origins (primarily Spanish and French from the sounds of the languages) pack into them and spill out into the streets. It seems to be Spain's version of the French Quarter of New Orleans.

After dinner I walked around a bit and headed to a Gelateria for some yogurt (black cherry and raspberry) gelato. As some of you may know I have a small obsession with Yogurtland and similar establishments back in the States and have been going through a bit of withdrawal. This has proven to be a good substitute while away. I then walked back along the coast to my side of the city and called it a night.

A wonderful and relaxing day to say the least!

Buenos noches and shavuah tov,

Zach

The Eagle Has Landed (in San Sebastian)

Dear Readers:

A quick update ... I've arrived in San Sebastian! My morning was consumed by a 5 1/2 hour train ride from Barcelona to San Sebastian. The ride gave me some time to relax, read my novel, do a bit of work and enjoy some nice country-side scenery.

Upon arrival I decided to walk (with my luggage) from the train station thru town to my hotel in order to get a feel for the city. It was a nice walk, except for the last 5'ish minutes which were pretty up hill. The city looks wonderful - picture'esque as I was lead to believe. When you enter the town you are in an upscale looking area that has a chalet/village feel. You soon emerge to the coast which is situated around a bay/sea area. While it is quite overcast today, I was still struck by the beauty of the time.

My hotel - Hotel Avenida - is nice. It's no 5-star hotel, but more than adequate for my needs. The best part is that my room looks out onto the whole town - so gorgeous. After checking in and unpacking I walked back into town and selected a beach side bar in which to read and enjoy some wine (no, I'm not turning into a lush). It was a very peaceful way to spend the afternoon. Tonight my plan is to grab dinner and do some more reading and walking. Should be nice.

Tomorrow I hope to enjoy the town, and some warmer weather (it's currecntly in the high 50's, but should be in the high 60's tomorrow). Think warm thoughts.

For more photos click here.

Shabbat shalom,

Zach

Reflecting on Barcelona

Hola Readers:

I am now on a train – writing offline - whisking me from Barcelona to San Sebastian. I’m about half way into the 5 ½ hour journey, and have enjoyed the opportunity to relax, read my book, take in the scenery and reflect on my days in Barcelona.

What a city! Having visited many major cities in Europe I can say with some confidence that Barcelona is truly a great blend of so many elements that make a European city intriguing (to me at least) – big, but not too big … deep historical roots, but with many modern elements … walkable … cultural, with great art, architecture, music and food … just great. Two of my former staff members at Ramah have a father who is a university professor/administrator, and who is a bit quirky. He won’t talk or think about experiences as he’s living them, but needs to wait until they have passed to reflect. While the concept of this blog is a clear sign that I don’t fully work in that way, I still thought, that with Barcelona now behind me, I would take a few moments to reflect on the highlights.

Top 10 Observations from Barcelona

1. The city is totally walkable! I am proud to share that during my entire stay I did not take one single taxi or metro ride, and that I did not use the bus either (outside of the tour bus used for the narration and the bus that dropped me off on day #1). It was great to walk – to feel alive and truly get a feel for the city, street names, etc. in a way that only happens on foot.
   
   
2. Travelers going solo, on a budget, or looking for a more authentic experience should certainly give thought to Guest House/B & B accommodations. My stay at Casa de Billy was particularly wonderful. It’s location on a main street, proximity to the train station and attentiveness of Billy and his assistant were much appreciated. While it lacked the full privacy of a hotel room, I was perfectly comfortable sharing a bathroom, enjoyed staying in a real Barcelona apartment and enjoyed the overall extra space (kitchen, dining room, etc.).
   
   
3. Definitely read The Shadow of the Wind while in the city. First off all, it has been a marvelous book so far and I am again thankful to Joel Stern for his recommendation. Second, it is just so cool to read a book that took place in Barcelona during the mid 20^th century with such clear references to streets and neighborhoods. I can really picture the action more accurately.
   
   
4. La Boqueria rocks! I have enjoyed my daily visits, and just can’t overemphasize how fantastic I find the wide selection of freshly squeezed juices … each for about one Euro (about $1.35). The juice is a perfect thirst quencher and a great way to taste local fruits at a wonderful price.
   
   
5. Love the wine and its price. I still can’t get over the fact that a glass of wine costs about the same as a bottle of water in most restaurants that I visited. ..and it’s good too.
   
   
6. The city and her neighborhoods are so diverse. I was awed by how each section of the city has its own distinct personality. The Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) is certainly old and winding with much history, Eixample is a bit more upscale with a couple of streets that are the Park Avenue/Beverly Drive/Champs Elysees of Barcelona, La Rambla/Raval is definitely the happening spot for tourists similar to 3^rd Street in Santa Monica and Ben Yehuda in Jerusalem and when you enter Barceloneta you are immediately transported to a marina/beach environment like Santa Monica, Venice or Yaffo.
   
   
7. The art – both in museums and in architecture – has been wonderful. Granted I’m a particular fan of Dali and Picasso, but I’m more impressed with the overall artistic feel of the city. Due to the architecture art is truly not restricted to a museum. Park Guell is a fantastic case in point, and a great place to walk around and get lost in the world of Gaudi.
   
   
8. The dining has been wonderful, despite my restrictions with kashrut and being a picky eater. Sadly these challenges don’t really allow me to take advantage of the whole “tapas” scene, but I have been quite happy with the range of fish dishes I’ve eaten. I definitely recommend that future travelers stop by Manuela Can in Barceloneta, Café d’Libertat in Barri Gotic & Fonda Gaig in upper Barceloneta.
   
   
9. I am quite impressed with Barcelona’s attention to conservation and the environment. First off, there are public trash cans all over leaving little excuse to throw litter onto the ground. Second, their public recycling system is quite impressive. Most streets have a set of enormous color coded bins on them where people can take their trash and sort according to paper, plastic, food, etc. I understand this system is recent, but that is unimportant at this point. Third, I was pleased to see that several restaurants have bathroom lights that are either controlled by a sensor or are typically off unless in use. Great!
   
   
10. The language issues I anticipated are not panning out, and have been replaced by an odd habit I’ve developed. I was expecting to really struggle to communicate since I don’t speak Spanish (surprising considering my extensive use in these postings). I really haven’t been challenged since typically someone in most restaurants speaks English, and a lot can be communicated through gestures on the streets. I was expecting to bump into some sort of regular stream of Israelis traveling the country and speaking Hebrew, and have been surprised by the rarity of these run-ins and the few times I hear Hebrew used when eavesdropping on conversations. Where are the Israelis (outside of the one who worked at Ramah one summer and the two who sat next to me to Figueres)? At the same time, I’ve developed a habit of allowing Hebrew to fly out of my mouth when I’m trying to communicate with the locals. I guess my brain simply processes that it should not send English out of my mouth, so Hebrew emerges as the next best thing. Seriously – I am more inclined to say “ken” or “lo” than “si” or “no.” Very bizarre.

To sum it up – Barcelona certainly gets two thumbs up. Can’t wait to dive into San Sebastian.

Adios,

Zach